Tuesday, May 19 ~ This day will remain with me for rest of my life. I was able to meet my friend, James, whom we now consider family. Having communicated via email for a couple years, we both were anxious to meet and get to know each other, and our respective families, a bit better. James and I share the same surname and he bears an uncanny resemblance to my paternal grandfather. James was a gracious and generous host, sharing an entire day with us. His beloved Mary passed away last winter, and he shared her final resting place with us, endearing us even more to this kind and humble man. He was thoughtful in his planning, knowing my passion for St. Patrick and his admirable accomplishments. James took us to see Croagh Patrick, the mountain where Patrick endured a lengthy pilgrimage high up the mountainside, and where pilgrims now go to climb his path and seek spiritual renewal. It was a cherished time for me, and I was moved to tears as I stood on the ground where Patrick stood also. I will always be deeply grateful to James for understanding how meaningful this was to me, and for making it happen that day.
Croagh Patrick in the distance; Co Mayo, Ireland 5/09
Patrick blessing his people, overlooking Clew Bay, Croagh Patrick, Co Mayo 5/09
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James also took us to Ballintubber Abbey, an amazing church where services have been held every Sunday for 800 years. Wow! It's hard to wrap your brain around that bit of trivia, but that is how this entire nation seems to be - ancient, amazing, awe-inspiring, and chock full of enough history to keep a history buff enthralled for the rest of their natural life. Ballintubber Abbey is where actor Pierce Brosnan was married, and James' nieces will both claim that same privilege.
Inside Ballintubber Abbey Co Mayo Modern High Cross at Knock Abbey
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Our day with "cousin" James also included a visit to Knock Abbey, tea at the new McWilliam Hotel in Claremorris, ice cream, souvenir shopping, a drive down to the shores of the Atlantic Ocean at Clew Bay, and a late supper at his house, prepared by his wonderful sister, Agnes. We had rashers of bacon and a delicious fruit soda bread. I got really brave and tried the fresh Irish pork sausage, and though I don't really care for sausage, I have to admit that it was very tasty. The black pudding was another story; blood sausage carries a negative connotation with it that I couldn't get past. I ate a piece anyway and, well, it wasn't that bad. It's just the thought...
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We said good-bye to James, Agnes, and her son, Kealon, with a promise to return and an invitation to spend more time in Co Mayo with these wonderful people. I hope and pray that comes to pass.
Molly and "cousin James" at James' house in Claremorris; Co Mayo, Ireland 5/09
Wednesday, May 20 ~ A day filled with history and humor (see my Comic Relief page for the story.) We left early, driving east in a heavy mist, and heading for the seat of the high kings of Ireland for centuries - Tara. Tara is a place dear to me, for it was here that Patrick used the shamrock to explain the Trinity to the high king; it was here that he made his message and his commitment known as he lit his Paschal Fire on the Hill of Slane within sight of the king's own, and normally pre-eminent, pagan celebratory fire. Little is left on the Hill of Tara to mark its importance in Ireland's history - there is a marker, a well-known statue of the saint, a couple gravesites, and the deep rings that formerly held the foundations of the castles of kings. It is, however, a place of peace and beauty. Standing atop the hill, and even higher upon the burial mound, one can see why the kings chose this place to be theirs. You can see endlessly; the rich green beauty of Ireland fills your sight in every direction.
Patrick at Tara; Ireland 5/09 Molly on the Hill of Tara, Ireland 5/09
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The town of Kells is nearby, and we spent some time there, too. This is the town where the famed Book of Kells was kept for centuries, in the Abbey of Kells. It was thought to have been brought here by the monks fleeing Iona and the Viking raids that threatened their existence. The monks were associated with St. Colmcille's monastery at Iona, and the monastic site at Kells was named St. Columba's (aka Colmcille.) The small oratory there dates back to the 11th century and the cemetery has some excellent high crosses, many extremely old gravesites, and a well-preserved round tower whose history includes the beheading of a high king in 1076. Kells is jam-packed with history and beauty, and I wish we would have had more time to spend there.
High Crosses and Round Tower at St Columba's; Kells, Ireland 5/09
Thursday, May 21 ~ Our plan was to see Galway today, but the dark skies and the endless hours in the wee auto took its toll. After experiencing Ireland, we know we'll be back and we'll have our day (or two) in Galway. We surrendered, changing plans and opting for a quick trip into Birr. They have a lovely castle still occupied, and the exterior is magnificent. We took pictures and had coffee and pastry at the little cafe in the manor square. The weather cooperated while we sat in a fleeting moment or two of sunshine. We took in the quiet air and the calm sense of serenity that hovers around these castles and monasteries and ancient ruins. It was just what we needed, especially considering the big day we'll have tomorrow, going to Dublin and walking the busy streets of the capital city. As we finished our coffee the sun was again overshadowed, and the clouds that moved in were ominously dark. We made a mad dash for the car and drove back to our cottage where we sat and watched the storm move in over Tullamore.
Birr Castle Gate; Birr, Ireland 5/09
Storm over Tullamore; Tullamore, Ireland 5/09