Tuesday, May 12 ~ It was difficult to grasp just how much more there would be to see and experience, considering how much we had already seen. This land is filled with a rich abundance of history and culture and beauty; there is more of it, I fear, than could be experienced in even a month's time. More likely, it would take a lifetime to really come to know this place intimately. Determined to give it our best effort, come rain or wind or ominous skies, we set out to see Lismore and Ardmore. Lismore Castle is stunning. Nestled above the tree-lined banks of the Blackwater River, it stands as a watchman and keeper of the quiet town of Lismore. The castle was built in the mid-1800's and is the residence of the Cavendish family. St. Carthage's Cathedral is located nearby and was built in 1633. The cathedral is a nice walk from the bridge below the castle, with all the surrounding pathways and grounds rich with the abundant fauna of the area. All three of us gasped when we came around the bend to the bridge below the castle. It is hard to describe; its size and magnificent architecture are really breathtaking.
Lismore Castle; Lismore, Ireland 5/09
Cemetery at St. Carthage's Cathedral; Lismore, Ireland 5/09
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On to Ardmore, which ended up being one of my favorite places in all of Ireland. Fantastic! St. Declan is thought to have founded a monastery here in 416 AD. The Oratory is dated to the 8th century, and the cathedral and round tower were built in the 12th century. Declan predates St. Patrick and was likely based here in the south of Ireland to tend to the needs of the Christians who were here, albeit a small community. Located inside the cathedral are two ogham stones, the ancient form of written language of the Celtic Irish. I could scarce breathe when I turned and saw them standing off to one side without pomp or circumstance, for I knew immediately what I was looking at, and the time from which they had come. Equally impressive to me was the 9th - 11th century stone carvings on the exterior wall of the cathedral, portraying stories from Christian teaching, and still standing after hundreds of years. The round tower is intact and a reminder of the need to protect the people who lived here from the invading hoards, mostly Viking. The door was usually built far up the tower so that the ladder used to enter could be pulled up inside. This allowed no way for the invading armies to enter the tower. St Declan's is a truly magical place.
St Declan's Round Tower; Ardmore, Ireland 5/09
St Declan's Oratory; Ardmore, Ireland 5/09
Cemetery at St Declan's; Ardmore, Ireland 5/09
Wednesday, May 13 ~ Rain welcomed us this morning, a good and cleansing rain, which offered renewal and a new sense of purpose. In spite of the constant precipitation, we decided to go ahead and go to Kinsale as planned. This town has been touted as the "gourmet capital of Ireland" but I have to admit we were a bit disappointed - either we did not find what Kinsale had to offer, or the economy has taken some of the finer eateries from this seaside town. It is cute, there is no denying that, but we didn't see the fine dining and upscale restaurants we were expecting. The rain did not let up and we decided to pop into a little cafe for a cappuccino and pastry. The coffee was good and the pastry was delicious. The rain let up a bit and we ventured out onto the streets to get a feel for the town. The colorful storefronts were overshadowed by the dark clouds above, and we made the decision to see Charles Fort and head home. We drove up a winding road toward the sea; Charles Fort is located on the shoreline of Kinsale Harbor, and it must have been an ominous fortification in its time. It is a star fort, giving its residents protection from every side, and many of the original walls are still standing. We walked around the outside and took some pictures, succumbing to our rain-drenched shoes, socks and pants. We ran for the car and drove back to the cottage to dry off and warm up. Bewley's tea, and toast with Nutella, perked up our spirits and we enjoyed the pleasure of being inside, warm and cozy, on a wet and stormy day. It was wonderful, and we knew a sense of complete peace and contentment. If only it could last forever!
Kinsale, Ireland 5/09
Charles Fort; Kinsale, Ireland 5/09
Thursday, May 14 ~ The rain followed us into the morning, and we commited ourselves to the same mindset we knew in Western Washington...you just do things in the rain. We headed for the city of Waterford, the rain light but steady. I'm happy in the rain, content under grey skies, and so our day started off well. Molly, too, loves the storm clouds and rainy days. Richard paid no mind to the weather, instead he concentrated on driving our silly little car, seated on the wrong side, shifting with the wrong hand, and driving on the wrong side of the road. Kudos to him, for I know we'd have ended up planted in one of the numerous rock walls along some country road had I decided to drive. The trip to Waterford was not long and by the time we arrived the rain had subsided. We walked around this very old city - reported to be the oldest in Ireland - and paid note to the interesting placement of abbeys and cathedrals. In reality, they were there first and the city was built up around them, but you find them hiding in alleyways and backstreets. The main corner in town is marked by Reginald's Tower, built by the Vikings in 1003.
Reginald's Tower, Waterford, Ireland 5/09
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The other main attraction Waterford offers is the Waterford Crystal Factory. To be honest, I wasn't sure I really wanted to see it. Crystal isn't really "my thing," but Richard was interested and I wanted everyone to get to see what they wanted to see. As is usually the case, I ended up really enjoying myself. The place was filled with amazing creations, all crafted by hand, of every imaginable shape, size and design. There was a huge grandfather clock made entirely of crystal (except the clockworks, of course), Cinderella's pumpkin carriage that was approximately 2 - 3 feet long, a magnificent chandelier, and numerous smaller creations. They have added a gold and silver shoppe to their retail area, and Richard bought me a fantastic necklace, ring-shaped with the history of Ireland portrayed in Bronze Age style art. It is very special to me, as it portrays the most memorable historical events of this land I love.
Crystal Chandelier; Waterford, Ireland Molly & Rich at Waterford Clock Tower
Friday, May 15 ~ We had heard much about the high crosses at Ahenny, so we designated this day to drive the twenty-five miles (or so) to Ahenny. I have to say that this was one our most treacherous drives. There are few roadways in Ireland that feel spacious or modern by our standards, so we were becoming accustomed to squeaking past oncoming traffic, but the road up to Ahenny was nothing short of an American driveway. A real nail-biter, to be sure. Good job, Richard. The high crosses were located in a small, nondescript cemetery with little signage to identify it. A short walk down a muddy path dotted with cow manure, and we arrived in the cemetery. There were maybe forty gravesites, and most bore only a marker or grass-covered slab. The high crosses were impressive, standing approximately 10 - 12 ft high and dating back to 700 - 800 AD.
High Cross at Ahenny, Ireland 5/09
View from cemetery at Ahenny, Ireland 5/09
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Our week in Co Waterford was winding down, and the three of us decided that we hadn't spent enough time in and around Dungarvan, the nearest town to our cottage. We drove back down to the very south of the island and went into Dungarvan, a warm seaside town with some nice restaurants and numerous inviting shops and pubs. Over the course of our stay in the Dungarvan area, we visited Paddy Foley's Pub, "Interlude" Bistro, the Sip N Surf internet cafe, and the local SuperValu Grocery Market housed in a beautiful brick building. We also visited the Bridgie Terrie, the local pub just up the road from our cottage. On this day, we took some time to drive down to the coast, the "Clonea Strand," and dipped our fingers in the chilly Celtic Sea. It began to drizzle and we left the strand, taking a few pictures before we left so we could remember the rough beauty of this beautiful coastline.
Celtic Sea, Clonea Strand; Dungarvan, Ireland 5/09